woensdag 20 mei 2015

Nothing is Sacred



As I am writing this, forces of ISIS are slowly advancing on the ancient historical site of Palmyra, near Tadmor in Syria. Archaeologists and cultural experts around the world have expressed their fear about what might happen, should the site fall into the hands of the Islamic state.  However this is not the first time that the site has stood on the brink of possible destruction. Back in 2013, the site was under fire during clashes between the forces of Assad and the then prevalent Free Syrian Army. Before that, the site lay in the path of combined British and French forces as they launched an assault on the troops of the Vichy regime in July 1941. In light of recent history, it seemed appropriate to take a look at the various causes that have led to the destruction of archaeological sites.



"I spotted on the plain a scene of the most astonishing ruins: there stood an innumerable amount of superb columns that continued in symmetrical rows as far as the eye could see, in a way similar to the avenues of our parks"- Comte de Volney, 1787




Religious iconoclasm:
The most well-known reason of the destruction of antiquities (and visual culture in general) is the fervour of religious zealots. Often adhering to radical fundamentalist beliefs, they perceive laws prohibiting depictions of gods in the most literal sense. Of course, the most recent example of this is the destruction wrought upon Nineveh by members of ISIS. This was characterised by their focus on the faces and feet of both humans and sphinxes. In accordance with Islamic teaching, an image which doesn’t have the feet to carry it and doesn’t have the face to breathe, see and speak loses its power. However, iconoclasm is not limited to Islam. During the Dutch reformation in 1566 Protestant followers went through Catholic churches and destroyed many statues, altarpieces and other votive objects. This event is known as the ‘Beeldenstorm’ (Storming of the statues) and coincided with similar bouts of Protestant iconoclasm raging throughout northern Europe in the 16th century.
Closer to ‘home’ (that is, the site of Horvat Kur) there was the damage caused to the mosaic at Hammath Tiberias in 2012. Ultra-orthodox Jews took a sledgehammer to the 1600-year-old floor and spray-painted slogans on the mosaic. While destruction of ‘blasphemous images’ is a common reason, in this case there was also another reason for the destruction of the floor.

Only the enormous, empty alcoves remain as a testament to the grandeur of the Bamiyan Buddhas
Activism:
Despite obvious attempts to destroy depictions of men and animals at the Hammat Tiberias mosaic, the graffiti sprayed on the mosaic was noteworthy, in that it referenced the ultra-orthodox protests against the excavation of human remains by archaeologists. This is considered to be a violation of religious laws and protestors are known to go to considerable lengths to voice their discontent.
Under religious ‘activism’ we can also place the destruction of the 6th century Buddha statues at Bamiyan, Afghanistan in 2001. Statues that had already been ‘neutered’ in terms of their religious functioning were nonetheless blown up by members of the Taliban. They even announced the act beforehand. This suggests that it was not merely religious zeal that drove them, but also the international outrage and the effect this would have on their reputation. The statues were not just destroyed to display the piety of the Taliban, but also to show that they commanded power in the region. The destruction became the means to an end, rather than an end onto itself.
But it is not merely the religious who see archaeological sites as a soapbox to propagate their agenda. In December 2014, Greenpeace put up a huge banner just underneath one of the geoglyphs at the site at Nazca. While it remains unclear how much damage the environmental action group caused to the site, they did enter into a restricted area and caused international outrage over the potential risks that were taken merely to garner publicity. These risks were displayed more dramatically in January 2015, when local farmers destroyed a geoglyph of the Chimu civilisation in La Libertad, Peru. However, this destruction was deliberate and fuelled by altogether different reasons.

Damage caused to the Hammath Tiberias synagogue mosaic in 2012

Landgrab:
Another common reason for the destruction of archaeological sites and antiquities is simply because people consider the archaeological site as problematically limiting for their own development. Sites are destroyed to make way for agriculture or project development, often on false grounds and under illegal circumstances. This was the case in La Libertad, where local farmers wanted the soil for irrigation and cultivation purposes. To them, the site was merely an obstacle that kept them from claiming and exploiting the soil. Sometimes, sites are even destroyed to be used as landfill, as was the case Belize in 2013. A contractor responsible for building a new road tore down a large section of the Mayan Noh Mul Temple building in order to use the crushed rock as landfill for the construction work, much to the dismay of the general populace. The responsible parties have since been prosecuted, but the damage done to the temple is irreparable.

Ignorance and carelessness:
Perhaps the most banal of reasons for the destruction of archaeological remains is the fact that people simply don’t understand what the significance of such sites is. This may be partly due to a lack of historical knowledge. The most publicised example in recent history is from 2013, when a Chinese blogger posted an image of graffiti left on a temple in Luxor. This sparked outrage in China and led to a public shaming of the 15-year-old who was responsible. Fortunately, in this case the damage done could be repaired.
The graffiti problem does however illustrate a larger issue: virtually every historic city or archaeological site has to deal with people wishing to proclaim to the world that they visited the site. A fine example from Israel is the cistern underneath the mesa fort at Massada, which is covered in graffiti of people from all over the world. People don’t appreciate plaster as particularly noteworthy or interesting, except maybe for use as a canvas.
However, there is another type of destruction that borders on ignorance: carelessness. The most striking example of this was the horrible ad hoc repairs done to the death mask of Tutankhamun during October of 2014. The repairs were done with household quality epoxy, which leaked down the mask and was then hastily removed, leaving visible scratches on the mask. Here the pressure to keep the museum’s flagship piece on display resulted in unnecessary damage, resulting in the opposite effect of what the carers had wanted, namely that the mask now had to be removed for extensive restoration.
Among carelessness should also be counted the collateral damage caused by military conflict. While Syria is an obvious recent example, this problem is not limited to the Middle-East. Border skirmishes between Thailand and Cambodia between 2008 and 2011 caused significant damage to the Hindu Preah Vihear temple complex. Most of the damage was caused by flying bullets and shrapnel.

So many unanswerable questions...
Looting:
The most common reason for the destruction of archaeological sites is still ordinary tomb-raiding. This ranges from the highly organised crime as is common in Syria and Egypt, to the average person taking out their metal detector to sniff around at a local excavation in the hopes of finding a trinket or memento. Here it is not just the destruction of the site and the artefacts, but also of its stratigraphy and the subsequent information that archaeologists could have gained from that. Although destruction for other reasons is saddening, the destruction of a site’s information before archaeologists have been able to do so in a controlled environment, where the information can be documented and analysed is perhaps the biggest loss. It could be argued that this is in fact the loss of history itself.

With so many potential threats, it seems odd that archaeological sites are often poorly protected. But protection is expensive, just like many other aspect of the archaeological discipline. Most projects run on limited budgets and researchers would prefer to spend valuable money on improved analysis of the site, rather than a security guard. On top of that, most sites are in remote areas and lack facilities, which make it difficult to permanently guard them with anything more than fences. When long-term guards are available, it also depends on the stability of the country itself whether or not they are able to perform their duty. For example: looting picked up in Egypt after the Arab spring and the ongoing political unrest. With many police officers withdraw to deal with the upheaval in the cities, the tourism police responsible for site security soon found themselves outnumbered and even outgunned when well-armed, organised gangs of looters descended on more remote sites. Attempts to stop them could often result in minor skirmishes and fire fights.
Ultimately, it is the fact that sites are often large, remote and reliant on limited financial means that makes them easy targets for looting and destruction. Many sites also lie on valuable soil that is a prime target for those who could care less about culture and historical significance. In other cases, sites are simply in the firing line of military conflicts and civil unrest. All these factors make archaeological sites highly vulnerable and should form a permanent reminder that we have to take better care of our heritage.

Signing off 

donderdag 19 februari 2015

A proper story



Several years ago, a naïve art history student sat in a lecture dozing off after hours of study, when the teacher told of an excavation in northern Israel, where the remains indicated the presence of a synagogue. This would be an interesting opportunity, as there was the possible chance of finding a mosaic floor (she apparently mixed up this excavation with the one at Huqoq, but hindsight is always 20-20). So the naïve art history student, whose knowledge of archaeology was limited to “wear a hat and be awesome”,  signed on with delusions of an exciting far off holiday for people whose cultural understanding went further than questioning the sanity of the Romans for building the Colosseum.  In 2012, this by then considerably less airheaded art history student began writing a blog to share the masochistic pleasures of participating in an archaeological excavation with the good folks at home, and to highlight some of the more eccentric phenomena

 
Our desires are...unconventional



It is now 2015 and, as some may have noticed, the blog has been clinically dead for a while. The past few years have been a bit busier and seen my summers at Horvat Kur become more involved, leaving less time for the writing of the blog. This year, I hope to change that and once again bring you, dear reader, many stories to satisfy your desires for information and Schadenfreude. In 2014 we documented and reviewed many of our finds years of field work during a dedicated study season. Items from the excavation at Tel Kinrot were restored, reorganised and carefully packaged for storage, so that they can be found again with ease the net time they are required. For Horvat Kur, the stratigraphy and architectural features were discussed and analysed, pottery was researched and metal objects that came back from cleaning were photographed.


also guitar music, lots of guitar music

Since the study season was so fruitful, we are once again able to excavate for a bit, so 2015 will see us go out into the field. It will be exciting to once again be taking most of my pictures during ‘magic hour’ (the hours just after sunrise and just before sunset), to have to dodge randomly thrown scorpions, to feel the warm dust be kicked up, to curse and whine about the six varieties of chicken, to sit at the Sea of Galilee and watch the herons streak low over the water and to be involved with the buzz at the field lab. But most of all it will be good to see the dear people of Horvat Kur again. In the meantime, look forward to some archaeological topics, both serious and nonsensical.

Signing off for now

dinsdag 5 november 2013

Back in the USA!



The Lost Dutchman is gone again. Usually I keep this blog for my excavation trips to Israel, but this time I’ll keep you posted about my trip to the USA. “What does that have to do with Archaeology?” you might be asking yourselves. Well, it does provide me the opportunity to catch up with some of my American friends down in South Carolina. There’s also the chance that we’ll be visiting some sites in Mexico, but that’s not really connected to the work in Israel. 

Anyway, let’s get back to Saturday: Thanks to an ‘inside source’ – who shall remain nameless – we didn’t get jumped by the fact that our plane was delayed. It still sucked, but at least we knew it was going to. We changed in Dublin, where it turned out that it really didn’t matter much because there were more connections coming in behind us. To top it off I managed to score the ‘most awkward moment’ when was seated next to a girl with a perfect British accent on a seven-hour flight. What exchanges we had are straight British vs American. Five hours into the flight, we actually get to proper talking and we figure out that we’re both Dutch. Five hours of fooling each other without actually knowing it. To top it off I realized I didn’t even know who I was talking to until we buckled up for the landing in Newark. 

Le wild Jeff Koons appears...

The next day we managed to make our visit to New York a mental rollercoaster. Starting off we went to the 9/11 memorial. Now I’m not someone who immediately started waving flags and going all “we have to support the USA, ‘cuz freedom” during that fateful day in 2001. It’s simply not in my nature to jump onto something like that, not in the last place because it happened 20,000 miles away. However, visiting the memorial and seeing all those names does make you realize just how horrible and tragic the whole affair was. Reading about whole teams of firefighters being wiped out; seeing how many people of all origins died; reading that at least three unborn children were among the casualties…it does something to you. We took the time to visit some of the places in the neighborhood, like St. Paul’s Chapel. Perhaps the most moving is the mementos, the ‘offerings’ that people left there from all over the world. It’s not a feeling that can be described in a few words. 

Overlooking the South Memorial Pool

We decided to stack onto all that with a visit to the Guggenheim museum. Out in front was a section of the New York Marathon, so we joined in cheering on people who think that running for a very long time is a good way to freeze your legs off before the snows hit. The Guggenheim itself had a mixture of modern art on display, running from the ‘classical’ to the ‘contemporary’. As if all racking our brains wasn’t challenging enough, we layered on some vertigo at the Empire State Building. It ain’t cheap going up there, but was the view ever worth it: thousands of city lights as far as the eye can see. It was a good end to a first day in the USA.

Go for the architecture, stay for the art.

The next day we drove up North to cross the border with Canada for a visit to Niagara Falls. I got my first taste of driving an automatic gearbox under American road laws. Considering that everyone is still alive and the car doesn’t look noticeably worse for wear, I’d say it was successful. Niagara Falls itself is a pretty impressive feat of momma nature, throwing up columns of evaporating water that can be seen for miles. The sheer scale of the thing and the amounts of water coming down leave a lasting impressing. 
"Maid of the Mist"

So there’s three days of visiting the USA. It’s taking some getting used to the way things work in the US: All mediums are large by European standards and some things that are nigh impossible to find in Europe can be bought without so much as a hiccup over here. Next on the schedule is a trip to Lady Liberty and then we are southbound for Atlanta, South Carolina and Florida. I’m looking forward to the warmer weather. 
 
New York, New York!
Signing off, 

The Lost Dutchman






zondag 14 juli 2013

Closing Time


Just like the previous year, the workload of the last two weeks was such that I hardly had time to wash my clothes, let alone update the blog. As of now, no one is left in Karei Deshe but the core of the staff team. It has been a hard four weeks but also an amazing four weeks. Sometimes you wish It’d never end; other times you wish you could be done with it. It`s as much an emotional rollercoaster as it is a physical one. Right now, I wish I could have it all one more time: One final time of being ‘flown’ up to the site; one final time for that beautiful sunrise; one final time for seeing a pair of Russians shooing scorpions from the site, one final time for “GOOOOOOOOOOOD MOOOOOOORING HORVAT KUR!!!” when a plane passes overhead, one more night of swimming in the lake, one more time of hearing our new soundtrack performed live, one more time the shitty chicken that lost its taste in week two, one more time of “OK, NEXT!”. One more time for “Dear people of Horvat Kur”…
Big stone, is good!


We’ve been through hell and high water as a team: we suffered the usual exhaustion, some medical concerns and a lot of frights when the Tell burnt down in a bushfire and we lost most of the digging equipment. Yet, through all of those things we`ve always had a lot of good luck and high times (especially when we figured out that our site itself was more or less unharmed.

Skyview came by on friday to perform their magic

The hardest part of this dig is being a staff member, as you have to watch all the people you call your friends after four weeks of sharing blood, sweat and beers, leave in small groups. Each time again, you suffer that same uneasy and miserable feeling in your stomach as you wave goodbye. On Monday, I will suffer that feeling for the final time, but it will be all the more difficult because it is the final goodbye of some of my closest friends on this dig. Perhaps that is why small things like proper Italian ice cream and one final glass of Laphroaig Quarter Cask on the beach of Karei Deshe while looking out on Tiberias under a starlit sky seem all the more enjoyable, yet also depressing. I`m not simply sad that Kinneret Regional Project season 2013 has come to an end: It`s a mixture of searing heartbreak and awkward satisfaction, as if you are leaving home to go on a long trip.


There are so many memories to bring along on this road from home back to home. We`ve managed to fully uncover the building that was found in 2010, we sang the praises of Gufah, the great divine and almighty lord of Taybeh, we swam in the Mediterranean, met Fano: the slyest old man in Jerusalem, negotiated the prices in camels for certain people and argued why they make the best pets… but most of all we came together as a group and became brothers and sisters in more ways than one. It`s probably best summed up by the following anecdote. When coming back from storing our equipment, some of the staff members commented that this whole experience is a bit like Hotel California by The Eagles: you can check out, but you can never truly leave.
Such a lovely place...


My dear, dear friends of Horvat Kur whom I know will be reading this: it has again been a great honor and a tremendous pleasure to be together with you and to share so many wonderful moments with you. I have already prepared plenty of room in my heart and my soul: check in and stick around for some drinks and some laughs until we meet again in the future.

The dear people of Horvat Kur

Signing off, for the last time this year from the enchanting Sea of Galilee 


… *snif*



The Lost Dutchman